Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Second Pants Pattern

 


After the first pants I sewed this year came out on the border of unwearable -- even though that might be mainly due to mSew U Panty using unsuitable fabric--, I decided to start from basics. I used the pants pattern in Wendy Mullin's book "Sew U":a basic, jeans-type pattern. She gives loads of suggestions of how to alter the look of them by using different pockets, belt loops, or alter the shape of the legs. So off I went to sew the pattern as given, as a try-out and basis for later pattern alterations. The outcome is wearable, but I had to alter as I went, to get there: I added a "second back yoke", becaus the back crotch length as given was about 6 cm too short. And after that, the waistband fit funny and flared out at both sides, so I sewed darts into the finished pair of pants, because I just didn't have it in me to take them apart.

Lessons learned:
-it is possible to make pants that fit and look as expected, it just takes time and alterations to get there.

Pattern Description:
Pants pattern from "Sew U" book. Pants are jeans-style, with a shaped back yoke and waistband.

Pattern Sizing:
s,m,l,xl. I cut the biggest size, 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
there is no photo, there are only line drawings, and I guess, yes.
more photos on my flickr:

Were the instructions easy to follow?
When there were instructions, they were easy to follow. For example, the zipper insertion was easy to follow, and turned out great. Instructions mssing for: how much seam allowance is on what seam; how to sew belt loops. Instructions somewhere else in the book for:
The book also does not give any instructions to alter fit.
DSCN0768

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like that they almost fit me. And I like the style. I hope that after some alterations, these will become my tried and tested pant pattern, that I can use to make different sorts of pants, as suggested by Wendy in her book.

Fabric Used:
Cotton twill. Oh, and some scraps of Amy Butler fabric for the waistband facings, and below the mock pocket flaps on the back.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
These are the first pants I made from the pattern, and I only tried them on, once I had the pants finished, before attaching the waistband. I then noticed that a bit more width for my behind would have been nice, and that there was a large gap between the upper back end of the pants and the waistband. I didn't do anything about the lacking width (too late), but inserted a second yoke piece to make the back rise higher.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I would definitely recommend it to others -- I love how Wendy explains how to adapt one well-fitting pattern and use it as a base for making many different looking pants. Yes, I will use it again -- I've put in more width for my behind, and added length to the back crotch using Sandra Betzina's tutorial.

Conclusion:
Love the pattern. Love that I could save them and that I will be able to wear them, even though they were just try-out pants.
I'm not sure about the alteration I made (and I put in the pattern in preparation for the next try): when considering a good fit is one with horizontal lines, I guess I didn't need all that length on the back rise, probably just a dart in both the back yoke and in the back waistband.
DSCN0767
Opinions & Suggestions on making the next try fit better are highly welcome!!









1 comment:

Julia said...

Wow, Hosen, mit so viel Detail. Schon allein bei der Idee wird mir ganz schwindelig. Ich bin sicher, der nächste Versuch passt dir 100%.